FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

CONSTRUCTION

Solid hardwood is considered by many homeowners to be the “gold standard” in flooring. Constructed from one solid piece of 100% hardwood, it’s known for its durability, authenticity, stability and colour consistency.

Engineered hardwood is made of layers with a layer of real wood on top of a plywood core. The plywood core consists of 5 to 7 layers, pressed together in a crisscrossed pattern. It’s what makes engineered hardwood flooring less likely to shift, expand or contract when exposed to environmental changes in temperature, moisture and humidity.

STYLE AND SPECIES

Solid hardwood is typically available in Cherry, Walnut, Red Oak, White Oak, Maple, and Hickory, the species that are hardest and most resistant to wear. It comes in a variety of widths up to 4" or 5" and an abundance of colours, textures and finishes

Engineered hardwood offers many of the same design options as solid. Additionally, you may find designs that are only possible with engineered wood, such as softer exotic species, specialty textures, certain surface treatments, colour effects and extra-wide planks.

Installation Location

Solid hardwood flooring performs best in above-ground spaces, such as living and dining areas, kitchens and bedrooms. We do not recommend installing solid in bathrooms, basements or laundry rooms where water and humidity can be a problem.

Engineered hardwood flooring can go in the same rooms as solid hardwood, but its engineered construction also makes it a great choice for basements and over radiant heating and concrete floors. (Still, avoid bathrooms and laundry rooms.)

DURABILITY

Solid hardwood durability is mostly dependent on the product’s species and level of protective finish. Choose harder woods like Oak and Hickory for greater dent and scratch resistance. Generally, you can rely on solid hardwood floors to stay strong for many years, even after several rounds of sanding and refinishing.

Engineered hardwood can also be sanded and refinished if the top layer is thick enough, though usually not as many times as solid hardwood. Like with solid hardwood, engineered products that have a protective finish will withstand scratches the best. If moisture, humidity or temperature are a concern—like in basement installations—you’ll definitely want to choose engineered hardwood flooring over solid hardwood.

SOUND AND FEEL

Solid hardwood, as the name suggests, has a solid feel underfoot, and is very quiet to walk on.

Engineered hardwood has the potential to sound and feel hollower when you walk on it, especially if you opt for a floating installation. Nailing and/or glueing planks down can make them more stable. Premium engineered hardwood collections are a bit thicker, so they may sound and feel more like solid hardwood.

COST

Solid hardwood generally comes at a higher price point than engineered hardwood flooring, but there are a lot of variables. Having a longer warranty, a higher level of protective finish, a specialized texture or an artistic staining technique can all elevate the total cost.

Engineered hardwood is usually less expensive until you get into premium collections, which are more comparable to solid hardwood floors. These may offer better durability, have a thicker top layer that allows for more sanding and refinishing, or have unique designs.

The biggest drivers of price are species, grade, cut, and width. Prefinished wide-plank quarter-sawn White Oak in a premium finish could be double or triple the cost of a narrow-strip common-grade Oak. More specifically:

1. Wood Species

• Domestic species (Red Oak, White Oak, Maple, Ash) are more affordable.

• Exotics (Brazilian Cherry, Walnut, Teak, Mahogany) can be much more expensive due to import costs and scarcity.

2. Grade of Lumber

• Clear/Select Grade → uniform color, minimal knots, very consistent → highest cost.

• #1 Common / #2 Common (Rustic/Character Grade) → more knots, mineral streaks, variation → lower cost but often popular for farmhouse/rustic looks.

3. Board Width & Length

• Wider planks are more expensive because they require higher-quality logs with fewer defects.

• Narrower boards are cheaper and yield more product per log.

• Longer boards (6 ft) cost more than random shorter lengths.

4. Cut of the Wood

• Plain-sawn (most common, least expensive).

• Quarter-sawn or rift-sawn → more dimensionally stable, unique linear grain, much more expensive because of lower yield from the log.

5. Thickness

• Standard solid hardwood is 3/4". Thinner profiles (1/2" or less) are cheaper, but less durable.

6. Finish Type

• Unfinished hardwood → lower upfront cost but requires sanding/staining/finishing onsite (adds labour cost).

• Prefinished hardwood → higher material price but faster installation.

• Premium finishes (aluminum oxide, UV-cured, oil finishes) cost more.

7. Texture / Surface Treatment

• Smooth traditional finish is cheapest.

• Wire-brushed, hand-scraped, or distressed finishes add cost due to extra labour/processing.

8. Sustainability & Certification

• FSC-certified or reclaimed wood carries a premium due to sourcing and sustainability practices.

9. Brand & Country of Origin

• Flooring milled in North America or Europe is often more expensive than imports.

• Established brands command higher prices for warranties and reputation.

10. Market Conditions

• Lumber supply/demand (e.g., Oak shortages, tariffs on exotic woods).

• Currency exchange rates for imported woods.

11. Installation Factors (Indirect but Affects Total Cost)

• Site conditions (subfloor prep, moisture barriers).

• Regional labour rates.

• Glue-down vs nail-down (affects total installed cost).

Thicker wear layers, better core construction, premium species, wider/longer planks, and high-end finishes increase price. Budget lines cut costs with thinner veneers, narrow boards, and more economical cores.

1. Wear Layer Thickness (Top Veneer)

• Thicker wear layers (4–6mm) allow for refinishing multiple times, increasing lifespan → higher cost.

• Thinner wear layers (1–2mm) are cheaper but usually non-refinishable and shorter-lived.
  

2. Core Construction

• Plywood core (multi-layered, cross-grain) = more stable and premium.

• HDF (high-density fiberboard) core = cheaper but less stable with moisture.

• Solid-sawn core = very high-end, offering stability close to solid hardwood.
  

3. Wood Species

• Common species (Oak, Birch, Maple) = more affordable.

• Exotic species (Walnut, Hickory, Acacia, Teak, Brazilian Cherry) = higher price due to scarcity and sourcing costs.
  

4. Board Width & Length

• Wider planks (7”–10") and longer boards (6 ft and longer) are more desirable but require higher-grade lumber → more expensive.

• Narrower, shorter boards are cheaper but often look “busier” when installed.
  

5. Finish Type

• UV-cured urethane = durable, mid-range pricing.

• Aluminum oxide finishes = premium, long-lasting protection.

• Oil finishes = luxury look but higher upkeep; cost depends on the brand.
  

6. Texture & Aesthetic Treatments

• Wire-brushed, hand-scraped, or distressed surfaces require extra processing → higher cost.

• Smooth/sanded finishes are simpler and cheaper.
  

7. Grade of Wood Veneer

• Select or Clear Grade = fewer knots, consistent grain → higher price.

• Rustic or Character Grade = more knots, variation → lower price.
  

8. Brand & Country of Origin

• European and North American brands tend to be higher priced than imports from Asia.

• Well-known brands command a premium due to warranty, reputation, and marketing.
  

9. Sustainability & Certification

• FSC certification, low-VOC adhesives/finishes, or eco-friendly production can increase costs.
  

10. Installation System

• Click-lock floating systems = easier installation, sometimes pricier due to engineering.

• Tongue-and-groove = usually less expensive but require glue/nails (higher install cost).
  

11. Market Factors

• Raw material supply (e.g., oak shortages).

• Currency exchange rates (for imports).

• Brand distribution and retailer markups.

Laminate pricing goes up with thicker planks, higher AC rating, water resistance, realistic printing/texturing, and strong warranties. Budget laminates cut costs with thin planks, basic prints, and low wear ratings.

1. Thickness of the Plank

• Standard range: 6mm → 12mm.

• Thicker planks feel sturdier, absorb sound better, and handle minor subfloor imperfections → higher price.
  

2. AC Rating (Abrasion Class)

• Measures durability of the wear layer (resistance to scratches, dents, stains).

• AC1–AC2: Light residential use → cheap.

• AC3: Standard residential → mid-range.

• AC4–AC5: Heavy residential / light-to-heavy commercial → premium.
  

3. Design & Print Quality

• Entry-level: basic wood patterns, repeating images → cheaper.

• Premium: high-definition printing, randomized patterns, and EIR (Embossed-in-Register) that matches texture with the grain image → more expensive.
  

4. Surface Finish & Texture

• Smooth → cheaper.

• Textured (hand-scraped, wire-brushed, matte, stone-look) → adds realism and cost.
  

5. Water Resistance

• Standard laminate is susceptible to swelling with moisture.

• Water-resistant / “waterproof” laminates (with sealed edges or special cores) are higher priced.
  

6. Plank Size

• Wider and longer boards are trending, require more precise manufacturing → more expensive.

• Narrow planks are cheaper but may look outdated.
  

7. Locking Mechanism / Installation System

• Basic tongue-and-groove → cheaper.

• Advanced click-lock systems (easy DIY install, tighter joints) → higher cost.

8. Underlayment

• Some laminates come with attached underlayment (foam, cork, soundproofing) → adds cost but saves on installation materials.
  

9. Brand & Warranty

• Well-known brands often cost more but include 25–Lifetime warranties.

• Off-brand / imports = cheaper, but may have weaker guarantees.
  

10. Eco & Health Certifications

• CARB2 compliance, Greenguard, or low-VOC certifications may increase cost.
  

11. Market & Distribution

• Retail markup, bulk/wholesale pricing, and availability of certain styles.

Vinyl flooring price climbs with thicker planks, thicker wear layers, SPC/WPC cores, realistic imaging, EIR texture, built-in underlayment, and brand reputation. Budget vinyl cuts corners with thin planks, basic prints, and weaker wear layers.

1. Type of Vinyl

• Sheet vinyl → cheapest, less durable, limited design realism.

• Standard LVP/LVT (flexible core) → mid-range, decent durability.

• SPC (Stone Plastic Composite) rigid core → higher-end, very stable, dent-resistant.

• WPC (Wood Plastic Composite) core → premium, thicker, better underfoot comfort.

2. Wear Layer Thickness (Note that mil. does not mean millimetres it equals 0.001 inches)

• Critical for durability and scratch resistance.

• Entry-level: 6–8 mil.

• Mid-range: 12–20 mil.

• Commercial / premium: 22–30+ mil.

• Thicker = higher price.

3. Overall Thickness (This measurement is millimetres)

• Ranges from 2mm to 8+mm.

• Thicker planks feel more solid, reduce sound, and handle imperfect subfloors → higher price.

4. Design & Print Quality

• Basic printing → lower cost, repetitive patterns.

• High-definition imaging + Embossed-in-Register (EIR) texture (where the feel matches the grain) → higher-end, more realistic → more expensive.

5. Finish & Surface Treatments

• Matte vs gloss finish (matte is trending, often pricier).

• Added scratch, scuff, or stain resistance coatings = more cost.

• UV coatings improve fade resistance in sunny areas → premium.

6. Plank Size

• Wider/longer planks are more desirable, require higher precision → costlier.

• Standard/narrow planks are cheaper.

7. Waterproofing & Core Stability

• All vinyl is moisture-resistant, but true 100% waterproof SPC/WPC cores command a premium.

• Some cheaper flexible vinyl can still warp or curl with long-term water exposure.

8. Attached Underlayment

• Many higher-end products include a built-in cork, EVA foam, or IXPE pad for comfort and sound absorption → adds cost but reduces install material needs.

9. Brand & Warranty

• Big names cost more but usually offer lifetime residential warranties.

• Off-brands/imports = cheaper but shorter warranty.

10. Installation System

• Glue-down = cheaper material, higher labour cost.

• Click-lock floating floor = pricier material, but easier/faster install.

11. Certifications & Safety

• Low-VOC (FloorScore, Greenguard Gold, CARB2) → higher price but better indoor air quality.

• Cheaper vinyl may have questionable adhesives or plasticizers.

12. Market Factors

• Oil & petrochemical prices (vinyl is plastic-based).

• Shipping/import costs (a lot is manufactured overseas).

• Supply/demand and style trends (e.g., wide-plank European oak looks).

Luxury Vinyl Tile is taking over the flooring industry, and for good reason! As technology advances, so does the way the flooring we install in our homes is engineered. If you’re weighing the pros and cons of both options, here are 7 reasons why luxury vinyl tile is a better choice than ceramic tile:

1. Cost. Luxury vinyl tile is much more budget-friendly than ceramic tile. Depending on the type of tile you are choosing, ceramics can cost as much as hardwood or high-quality carpet. Materials aside, it costs 40% less to install luxury vinyl tile than it does to install ceramic tile.

2. Faster and easier. Installing ceramic tile is time and labour-intensive, and you need a professional if you want it installed properly. Luxury vinyl tile is DIY-friendly and 60% quicker to install than ceramic tile. With some luxury vinyl tile floors, there’s no need to pull up the existing floor provided it is a level, hard surface.

3. Durability. Both luxury vinyl tile and ceramic tile are durable flooring options. However, ceramic can chip and crack over time and is more prone to damage.

4. Aesthetic Appeal. Luxury vinyl tile is offered in many looks that are just like tile. The photographic technology allows vinyl to mimic the appearance of ceramic or other materials in a way that's nearly indistinguishable from the real thing. Plus, this added layer allows the tiles to withstand extended use.

5. Less mess. Prepping to install ceramic tile is a mess. Because you must rip up the flooring and make sure the surface is even before installation, there is an excess of dust. When cutting most vinyl tile, there is little to no dust. Luxury vinyl tile is also easy to keep clean post installation.

6. No wait time. With luxury vinyl tile, there is no waiting for the floor to cure or dry. You can live on it right away!

7. Not as permanent. Once ceramic tile is installed, it can be difficult and costly to remove. If you’re someone who likes to change trends and home design elements, floating luxury vinyl tile floors are easier to remove and replace.

A regular vinyl floor is a budget-friendly, low-maintenance option with a soft feel, while vinyl with a ceramic coating offers enhanced durability, scratch resistance, and a more realistic appearance, albeit at a higher cost and with the potential for a harder, colder feel. The main difference is that the ceramic coating acts as an extra protective layer, boosting the performance of the underlying vinyl, whereas a standard vinyl floor relies on its base materials and wear layer for durability.

SUMMARY

Regular vinyl floor

Pros: Affordable, comfortable underfoot, low maintenance, and easy to install.

Cons: Less resistant to scratches and dents compared to coated options.

Vinyl with ceramic coating

Pros: More scratch-resistant, more durable, and offers enhanced clarity and a more realistic look. The ceramic coating creates a hydrophobic layer that repels water, dirt, and contaminants, making cleaning simpler and preventing water spots. It also protects against minor scratches, UV damage, and stains, extending the life of the vinyl wrap.

Cons: More expensive, can be harder and colder underfoot, and requires specific cleaning methods to avoid damaging the coating.

A proper subfloor is crucial because it provides a strong and stable foundation for your finished flooring, ensuring its longevity, durability, and appearance. It prevents unevenness, which can lead to cracks and squeaks, and offers protection against moisture damage and mold. Proper preparation also creates a clean surface for better adhesion and can even improve insulation and sound dampening.

What makes a good subfloor

Structural integrity:

A solid subfloor, built over joists, distributes the weight of your finished flooring evenly, making it more stable and durable over time.

Smooth and level surface:

It creates a flat and even base that prevents uneven finished flooring, which can cause creaking, squeaking, or damage to the surface layer.

Moisture protection:

A well-prepared subfloor, especially when paired with moisture barriers, protects your flooring from water damage, mold, and mildew that can seep up from the ground. Especially for basement floors as concrete is inherently porous which allows for moisture to seep through.

Improved adhesion:

A clean and dry subfloor ensures that adhesives can bond properly, preventing loose tiles or floorboards.

Longevity of your floor:

A sound subfloor is essential for the long-term performance of any flooring material, from tile and hardwood to carpet and vinyl.

Enhanced comfort:

Some subflooring systems include insulation that helps dampen sound and can improve energy efficiency.

Signs of a poor subfloor

Ignoring a damaged or improperly installed subfloor can lead to significant problems down the line, including:

• Squeaking and creaking

• Uneven or sagging floors

• Soft spots underfoot

• Visible moisture damage, mold, or rot

• Popping or cracked tiles

In Summary:

You should never lay new flooring of any kind without evaluating the condition of your existing subfloor. If your subfloor is uneven or requires attention, it’s recommended that you deal with that BEFORE you lay new flooring. Failure to have a proper, even subfloor is likely to create issues with your flooring long term and is typically a condition of a flooring warranty.

Flooring that works well with heated systems:

• Tile and natural stone: These are often considered the best options for underfloor heating. They have high thermal conductivity, meaning they heat up quickly and retain heat well, which makes the system very efficient. They can also withstand higher temperatures.

• Engineered wood: This is a much better choice than solid wood for heated floors. It is more dimensionally stable and less prone to warping or gapping from temperature fluctuations.

• Laminate: Many modern laminate products are compatible with underfloor heating, but it is important to check with the manufacturer. Thicker laminates can reduce efficiency, so a thinner product is often more suitable.

• Vinyl (LVT/LVP): Certain types of vinyl flooring work well with heated floors. The material heats up and cools down quickly, but it has a lower maximum temperature limit compared to tile. It is crucial to choose a product rated for use with radiant heating.

• Concrete: Polished concrete is highly conductive and works very well with radiant heating. It retains heat effectively and is a durable, low-maintenance option.

• Carpet: It is possible to use carpet over a heated floor, but it is the least efficient option due to its insulating properties. For the system to be effective, the combined thermal resistance (tog value) of the carpet and underlay should not exceed 2.5.

Flooring to avoid with heated systems:

• Solid hardwood: This flooring is not recommended for most radiant heating systems. Its natural moisture content can cause it to warp, cup, or crack when exposed to consistent heat and temperature changes.

• Cork: This material is an excellent natural insulator. Installing heating under cork would block most of the heat from entering the room, making it a very inefficient and ineffective choice.

• Rubber: While some sources say solid rubber can be used, many adhesives used with rubber flooring may break down when exposed to heat, and some systems are incompatible. It is essential to confirm with the manufacturer.

UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENCE: CHARACTER GRADE vs CLEAR GRADE HARDWOOD FLOORING

When it comes to hardwood flooring, the choice between character grade and clear grade can significantly impact the overall look and feel of your space. Here, we will delve into the characteristics and distinctions between different grades of hardwood flooring.

CHARACTER GRADE - RED OAK

CLEAR GRADE - RED OAK

Clear Grade Hardwood Flooring: Clear grade hardwood flooring is known for its pristine appearance and uniformity. These planks are carefully selected for their minimal knots, blemishes, and natural variations. The consistent grain patterns and lack of imperfections create a clean, refined look that suits contemporary and formal settings. Clear grade flooring offers a sleek and sophisticated aesthetic.

Character Grade Hardwood Flooring: Character grade hardwood flooring embraces the natural beauty and unique charm of wood. This grade showcases the wood’s natural variations, including knots, mineral streaks, worm holes, bird pecks, and color variations. The rustic and authentic character of character grade flooring adds warmth, depth, and personality to a room. It is a popular choice for those seeking a more relaxed and inviting atmosphere with a touch of natural beauty.

CLEAR GRADE - HICKORY

CHARACTER GRADE - HICKORY

WHITE OAK - CHARACTER GRADE

WHITE OAK - CLEAR GRADE

Why acclimation is necessary

• Moisture stabilization: Flooring materials absorb or release moisture to match the surrounding air. Delays give the flooring time to reach equilibrium moisture content (EMC) with the room's environment.

• Prevents structural issues: Installing flooring before it acclimates can lead to issues caused by expansion and contraction, such as buckling, cupping, or the creation of unsightly gaps between planks.

• Ensures stability: Acclimation ensures the flooring remains stable and flat once installed, preventing long-term problems and eliminating the need for costly repairs down the road.

How to ensure proper acclimation

• Deliver early: Schedule delivery of your flooring a minimum of three days before you plan to install it. Following manufacturer guidelines is essential, as different materials and conditions require different acclimation times.

• Check site conditions: Make sure the room where the flooring will be installed is at the correct temperature and humidity level, and that any new construction or painting is completed. Dampness from new drywall or fresh paint can negatively affect the process.

• Store correctly: Place the unopened cartons of flooring on a flat surface in the room where they will be installed. Allow for air circulation around the boxes.